17 septembre 2010

Tobago ear ache

The post-nuptial week in Tobago passed quietly. The day after we all went up to the newly-wed's villa-for-wedding-night, further up the hill above Stonehaven Bay, for lunch and a dip in the pool. Immediately afterwards, the dispersal started. I took le grand frère and la hermana de la nueva cuñada to the airport to catch their London-bound flight, then shuttled back to home villa where la bienheureuse et la soeur were finishing packing up. The three off us then headed off north into the great Tobago unknown. Parlatuvier was a mere 20km up the coast as the crow flies, but on Tobago's sinuous, mountainous, non-signposted roads, it took a good hour to find.

Our new home for the week was a self-catering cottage in the grounds of a larger property, which is run as a B&B by a retired American couple during the six months of the tourist season. In off-season we were met by the manager, who I shall name Dwight in honour of two of his more famous namesakes, one a fellow Tobagonian. Due to our wildly optimistic estimate of journey time we arrived half an hour late. I apologised to the garrulously genial Dwight for this fact.
"Oh, you're not late," he said dismissively, and proceeded to introduce us to our new home. An hour later he was still showing us round a cottage consisting of two rooms, it was getting dark, and we still had the pool to go.

After giving Dwight a lift home, we ate an improvised dinner out on the balcony, looking across the treetops to the dark ocean beyond. Finally, we collapsed into bed, following Dwight's advice to keep the fans blowing full blast to keep the mosquitoes away. It worked, but it was rather like I'd imagine sleeping inside Concorde's engines would be, albeit without the searing heat.

The next morning, after a somewhat disturbed night's sleep, we headed back down the long and winding road to Stonehaven Bay. A mere 50 minutes later we arrived to find el hermano and la sobrinita suffering from ear infections. No matter, we all headed to the beach for a bit of swimming (head up in the aforementioned two cases) and inflatable doughnut surfing. After lunch, on a blistering hot day, it was time to ferry luggage to the airport and drop off afflicted ears at the clinic on the way. After waving goodbye to the bride's Colombia-bound family, it was back to the clinic to find the patients still queueing. La bienheureuse, la cuñada and I left the sufferers and went off to do a bit of suffering of our own, in the form of provisions shopping. Inquiry at a nearby pharmacy as to whether antibiotic ear drops could be had without prescription produced an answer in the affirmative. We returned to the clinic to find the queue unchanged, but it was decided seeing a doctor was the preferred option, given that the blocked ears would be flying two days later.

La cuñada engineered a bit of queue jumping for her beloveds, but as they still had some way to go before seeing a doctor and the shopping was cooking in the car, I took la bienheureuese and other perishables back to Stonehaven before returning to the clinic once more. Hallelujah, a doctor had been seen, diagnosis made, and prescription provided. Off to the pharmacy, another queue, and finally, three hours after setting off, medicine was obtained. Back at base, it was time for the happy couple to set off on a Barbadian honeymoon. Fond goodbyes over, we consoled ourselves with a dusk stroll to witness the surf pounding the beach and another stunning sunset. After a quick dinner came the long drive in the dark back to Parlatuvier and our isolated, windswept cottage.

Friday, after a somewhat better night's sleep, we retraced the tortuous route south to enjoy the Melbourne gang's last full day in Tobago. For a bit of variety we went to the beach. The breakers rolled in and dissuaded those with infected ears and gestating babies from risking the water. The brave tried a bit of body surfing, but everybody soon went back to the villa and the calmer waters of the pool. Dinner for eight and then it was time for tearful farewells. We hit the night road north one last time, leaving the sweet sobrinas and their parents to pack bags for the flight towards the Florida theme parks. The ears apparently survived.