26 janvier 2010

Au revoir Melbourne

The temperature in Lyon today is a full 40 degrees lower than it was in Melbourne the day we returned from tropical Queensland. The following days we witnessed another graphic demonstration of Melbourne's wildly oscillating weather as the thermometer plummeted more than 20 degree. The next few days were decidedly chilly and forced me to dig socks, shoes and the single sweatshirts I'd brought out of the suitcase.

A couple of days after our return to Victoria, we decided to leave our hosts a little time and space of their own, and booked a couple of nights in the Grampians, which happily coincided with sunny and gradually warming weather. So it was that the 2nd Thursday of the new year, la bienheureuse, la belle-mère and I set off on the 3 hour drive and arrived in Halls Gap in time for a late lunch at the Brambuk Cultural Centre. Afterwards we drove up the twisting Mount Victory road for some sightseeing, starting with Mackenzie Falls. Impressive they were too, as was the climb down and back up from the base. On the way back to camp we stopped off at the Reed lookout to take in the views north and south across the northern Grampians, then had an early dinner in Halls Gap, viewed the grazing kangaroos on the sports oval, and finally retired for the night after a couple of commemorative games of Peanuthead.

Friday morning we set out early for a full day's sightseeing. Back up Mt Victory Rd to visit a succession of lookouts for a succession of stunning views. Boroka, for a panoramic view east, Reed again where we made the additional walk to the Balconies, then another stroll round the Zumsteins walk. Then we decided to venture further north for a bumpy ride to Ngamadjidj, one of the Aboriginal art sites in the area. Not quite as impressive as those we saw in Kakadu, but it was an enjoyable drive, enhanced by emu and kangaroo spotting, and finished off with delicious iced coffees and milkshakes. 

Next on the agenda was an evening watching traditional dancing at Bambruk, but we had time to take a round about route there via the Silverband falls and another pleasant walk in the forest. The Aboriginal dancing at the cultural centre turned out to have a large element of audience participation, much to the consternation of certain spectators. The troupe leader asked for volunteers, then when no hands were raised took much pleasure in nominating the victims. He eventually succeeded in getting everybody except some prim Italian ladies into the dance circle. A very enjoyable evening included a lesson on didgeridoo playing and a tasty stew dinner during the refreshment break. 

We decided to take the scenic route home, so early the following day we set off south and a bit west instead of east, and arrived at Cape Nelson lighthouse for a rather tasty lunch at the café. From there we wended our way east and joined the Great Ocean Road at the Warnambool end. Dodging (not entirely successfully) heavy rain showers, we managed to take in most of the viewpoints we didn't get to on our previous jaunt along the Great Ocean Road five years previously. The Bay of Islands, Bay of Martyrs, the Grotto, London Bridge and the Arch all received flying visits, before the approach of dusk forced us inland to take the fast road home.

We arrived back in Melbourne late in the evening where la cadette emerged from her cocoon upstairs in front of the spare TV and video, watching episodes of Friends for the hundredth time, to show us her birthday present. Intensive negotiations with her parents had rather miraculously (for both parties) transformed an iPod Touch into a tailless mouse named Kiko. The new arrival sent the previous centre of his mistress' affections, Snowy the budgerigar, into a hyperactive flurry of attention seeking. Pet birds can be jealous too. 

Our remaining four days down under passed all too quickly (and somewhat painfully in my case, afflicted by yet another back injury), filled with another trip to the cinema (Avatar or The Princess and the Frog according to viewing tastes), a drive south towards the Mornington peninsula to see and make sand sculptures at Frankston, an outing to Docklands for las sobrinas and la bienheureuse to try their hands at high wire walking, bungee trampolining, base jumping, trapeze swinging and jousting. La sobrina senior showed her usual poise and balance by excelling on the high wire, and la bienheureuse entertained with a couple of face plants off the trapeze swing. Great fun was had by all.

Alas Thursday the 21st arrived all too soon and it was time to bid a tearful goodbye. We miss them all dreadfully already. The trip home was long but smooth until we reached the car park at Lyon airport. Holding our breaths as I turned the key in the ignition did the trick, and the engine started more or less first time after surviving four weeks of snow and ice. We were home free. Or so we though. Resurfacing work in the car park meant the route to the exit was less than obvious and I found myself up a dead end. No problem, just reverse back and start again. Bang! Reverse? This old girl was not for reversing. The left rear brake seized up and refused to unlock. Nearly two hours later, with the help of the car park security man and the airport breakdown service, we eventually got on the road and safely made it home. Garage bill on Monday to replace shattered brake pads and ruined disc - 375 euros. An expensive decision to take the car rather than a taxi to the airport...

12 janvier 2010

Bright Points and Magnetic Islands


2009 ended in Melbourne and passed into 2010 in a blur of activity and laziness. Swimming in Port Philip Bay to cool down from the sweltering heat, New Years Eve spent chez la famille Suisse imbibing too much vin. Then in the new year, when temperatures dropped 15 degrees, a day out in Victoria market and down town Melbourne, and a breezy stroll along St Kilda esplanade. In between lots of games of Uno and Peanuthead.

Then at last Monday the 4th rolled round and it was time to surrender to the magnetic lure of Queensland. An afternoon flight to Townsville, a dash by taxi to catch the early evening ferry, and we made it to Magnetic Island by 8pm, where our courtesy car and luxury waterfront apartment awaited. Quick shop for dinner, bed and next morning straight into one of the four pools in the complex. And thus the next few days passed, a succession of late mornings followed by swimming and games in the pool, afternoon trips out to explore the island. The height of stinger season alas meant swimming in the sea and snorkelling were off the agenda without the hire of a full body stinger suit.


Extra-curricular activities included a trip to the koala sanctuary at Horseshoe Bay, where koalas were duly cuddled, cockatoos and baby crocodiles were kissed, and skinks, bearded dragons and pythons were worn as fashion accessories. A day's fun fishing was also had, with plenty of catches including colourful reef fish and remoras. Plus of course, the obligatory one that got away - the only fish worthy of being called dinner, which I incompetently failed to stun before dehooking, only to see it slip out of my hands to freedom off the side of the jetty, almost taking with it a treasured Ipod Touch. 

Excitement yesterday evening - the last fishing sortie of the day ended in minor drama when la cuñada slipped on the rocks and slid into the surging, stinger infested water. Moving with the speed of a hyperactive sloth, her beau-frère scrambled across the rocks and pulled her out, though not before the waves and barnacles had conspired to leaves some nasty scratches on various parts of the anatomy, the most painful somewhere around the derrière. Made sitting a little painful, but tasty fish dinner out that night was completed just in time, as the hot, humid weather broke in an almighty storm. The wind blew and the rain lashed down, and the next day was mostly spent lazing about indoors or swimming in the pool against the backdrop of waves crashing into the rocks below.


And then, finally the big day arrived. L'anniversaire de la nièce cadette, greeted in the morning with a birthday banner, balloons, a few presents and a bit of cash. The proposed birthday day out of horse-riding on the beach and in the sea was swapped for an iPod Touch (which seems likely to be swapped in turn for tailless mice, negotiations still in progress). So the day was spent cavorting in the pool, followed by a full tour of the island in a vehicle large enough for all seven, hired for the day. So we bumped, rumbled and splashed along the unsealed road to West Point beach, and took in most of the other accessible beaches on the island too. Tasty Tex-Mex dinner completed the first day in the 12th year of my little sweet sobrina.

The next day, alas (though a turtle was spotted grazing in the water beneath the apartment), it was time to break the magnetic pull of the island and head home to Melbourne, where it was a steaming 43C, though a mere 38C when we arrived at 11 in the evening. Fortunately, this afternoon the thermometer shows 26C outside as I write and still dropping...